Valencia

Had the steak paella here with friends and it was extraordinary - the kind of meal you keep bringing up afterwards. Order it.

Ricard Camarena's casual counter inside the Mercat Central - a good spot for an easy lunch. Grab a stool at the bar and eat surrounded by the market that supplied it.

Valencian tapas with an organic bent - much of the produce comes from their own farm. Relaxed, generous, very Ruzafa.

Outdoor gastro market by the sea in Cabanyal - stalls covering everything from Valencian classics to Thai. Tried a bit of everything; the croquettes were the standout.

Filipino fusion with Spanish influences in Ruzafa. Order the humba and let the staff steer the rest.

An old ice factory turned bar and cultural space near the beach - drinks, food, music, and a crowd that keeps it going. Stayed far later than planned. Really good.

Retro, red-lit cocktail bar in Ruzafa - atmospheric without being overbearing. A good second stop of the night.

Hiked around Buñol and swam in the pool under the waterfall - a sixty-metre drop into emerald water, under an hour from the city. Go on a weekday if you can.

Midsummer night on the main beach - bonfires, fireworks, and the whole city in the water at midnight. If you can time a June visit around it, do.