Napoli
Chaos and carnage, in the best way - the gateway to the southern half of Italy and the Amalfi. Embrace the energy, eat where the locals eat, and make it up as you go along. Give Pompeii a full day, and if the budget allows, find your way up to a view over the bay at sundown.
5 recs
A proper locals' eatery up in Vomero with fantastic pizza - the kind of place the city keeps for itself.
A nice date-night spot - there are a couple of them dotted around the city, and the Chiaia one is the pick.
Right in the thick of it. Locals eat here, and you may well find yourself singing and clapping along with them before the night is out.
Very, very pricey - but if you can get up there for sundown, the view over the bay is breathtaking. Extremely professional, attentive staff, and the fig cocktail is one of the best cocktails I've ever had.
The day trip from Naples. Give it a full day and go early - the scale of the place doesn't come across until you're standing in it.
Know somewhere in Napoli I should go? .