Milano

A good hotel for work - quite corporate, but that's rather the point. Central, comfortable and easy.

Had lunch here at the countertop - unfussy, generous, fairly priced, and eating at the counter is the way to do it. Would go back without thinking about it.

Sat outside and solo dined in Brera. The food was good, if a little touristy - a pleasant way to spend an evening on your own.

Flawless. The kind of neighbourhood Italian that quietly ruins other restaurants for you.

Exactly what you want from an old Milanese trattoria - classic dishes, waiters who have clearly been there for decades, zero interest in trends. Perfect.

A French-style café doing serious croissants and coffee under a painting of Napoleon. Milan doing Paris better than it has any right to.

Rooftop bar with pools and a proper cocktail list. Go at golden hour and dress up a little.

A haircut as a piece of history - a proper old Milanese barbershop where everything is done the slow way. Book ahead.

Walked the grounds and courtyards - a good wander even without going into the museums.