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Recs
Italy

Milano

Sharp-dressed and always moving. Do the Duomo and the castle, enjoy the shopping, then retire to Brera or the Navigli when it's time to eat. The old trattorias are the city at its best - waiters who have been there for decades and no interest in trends - and there's a rooftop with a proper cocktail list for when the evening picks up. Finish it at golden hour. Wander up to the corporate quarter in the north and you'll find a very different Milan - a city of glass and the vertical gardens. The metro is excellent and reliable - tap in and tap out, just like the London Underground. Taxis are trickier; ask at a hotel desk or similar.

15 recs

Hotels
Hotels: Uptown Palace

A good hotel for work - quite corporate, but that's rather the point. Central, comfortable and easy.

Restaurants
Restaurants: Ciciarà

Had lunch here at the countertop - unfussy, generous, fairly priced, and eating at the counter is the way to do it. Would go back without thinking about it.

Restaurants: Il Cestino· Brera

Sat outside and solo dined in Brera. The food was good, if a little touristy - a pleasant way to spend an evening on your own.

Restaurants: Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone

A beautiful restaurant that's fantastic for a very 'Milan' lunch or a romantic dinner. Book ahead to sit in the courtyard and dress sharp - the setting is lovely.

Restaurants: Osteria del Treno

A great casual restaurant with great food. It's very large, so there's a high chance of being accommodated as a walk-in - and the staff are very friendly and helpful.

Restaurants: San Mauri

Flawless. The kind of neighbourhood Italian that quietly ruins other restaurants for you.

Restaurants: Sapemare

Seafood with a fantastic selection across the menu - built for a long but light lunch.

Restaurants: Trattoria Milanese 1933

Exactly what you want from an old Milanese trattoria - classic dishes, waiters who have clearly been there for decades, zero interest in trends. Perfect.

Coffee & Bakeries
Coffee & Bakeries: Don Bistro

Small, bustling and independent - popular with the morning rush crowd for a reason. Great coffee and good energy.

Coffee & Bakeries: Égalité

A French-style café doing serious croissants and coffee under a painting of Napoleon. Milan doing Paris better than it has any right to.

Coffee & Bakeries: Orsonero Coffee· Porta Venezia

A cosy café with outside seating in the heart of a residential area - nicely busy and very much a locals' spot.

Bars
Bars: Ceresio 7

Rooftop bar with pools and a proper cocktail list. Go at golden hour and dress up a little.

Pubs
Pubs: Tap Milano

A buzzing brewhouse with a long rotation of guest beers from all over Europe. Nicely busy, fairly decent bar food, and a great meeting spot for casual drinks.

Sights & Activities
Sights & Activities: Antica Barbieria Colla di Franco Bompieri

A haircut as a piece of history - a proper old Milanese barbershop where everything is done the slow way. Book ahead.

Sights & Activities: Castello Sforzesco

Walked the grounds and courtyards - a good wander even without going into the museums.

On the list

Know somewhere in Milano I should go? .

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